Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic codes –Meaning and fixes

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To troubleshoot the error codes that come up when you run kitchenaid dishwasher service diagnostics, you need to understand what each error code means.

Below is a list of various kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic codes and what they potentially mean to help you fix your machine.


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic codes –Meaning and fixes

Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 4-3

If your dishwasher blinks code 4-3, you are probably looking at a faulty wash motor.

However, if in doubt, you can verify this by testing if you’re getting 120-volts to wash motor (when it is washing).

You can use your multimeter to do this (and there are good videos on YouTube demonstrating how to carry out the test).

If you do not get 120-volts, it is safe to consider the wash motor faulty.

Now, as you’d expect, the best fix is replacing the wash motor.


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 6-4

If your Kitchenaid dishwasher is flashing 6-4, your appliance is either having:

  • A damaged fill valve.
  • A bad float switch.

Now, you’ll need to replace the faulty parts to get rid of the error code.

To point you in the right direction, this dishwasher fill valve typically works for Whirlpool and most of its affiliated dishwasher brands including Kitchenaid and could be an exact match for your Kitchenaid model.

Important tip: You can start by replacing one part and if there is no change, replace the remaining component (keep in mind that the float switch is usually cheaper to replace so you can start with it).

Again you can go for this replacement dishwasher float switch (it fits most KitchenAid, Whirlpool, and Maytag Dishwasher models).


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 8-1

If your Kitchenaid dishwasher is blinking 8-1, it might be indicating that there is no water.

So check if the water supply has been turned off by someone else without your knowledge.

If this is true, turn the water supply back on and see if it will start running perfectly.

Now, if you found the water supply on, check if there are some loose connection points.

Also, check if the rubber washer has been properly seated (in the fitting) for all the connection points.

Finally, check the dishwasher’s water supply hose for kinks (and try to fix them).

That is crucial because the water may not be reaching the appliance due to problems somewhere in the water supply connections or the hose itself.


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 6-6

This error code is often displayed when the diagnostics detect low water temperature (the water coming into the machine is not hot enough).

Here you’ll need to test the water temperature (obviously with a thermometer) and check what could be causing the temp issue, if too low (below 110 degrees Fahrenheit).

To be clear, four things – the water heater, thermistor/OWI, and the main electronic control board– could be the culprits in this case (and may need to be replaced).


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 4-4

This code points to a circulation pump that is not functioning and you can try to resolve the issue by first resetting the machine.

If this does not help, check for any loose wires in there and reconnect them properly.

Next, you should inspect the wire harness and change it out, if it has been damaged.

The final repair is installing a new circulation pump motor (Here is a great replacement circulation pump motor for Kitchenaid dishwashers).


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic codes – other kitchenaid diagnostic codes

Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 1-1

Probable meaning: There is a stuck relay (on your machine’s circuit board).

Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 1-2

Probable meaning: The memory (on the machine’s control board) is corrupted or damaged.

Solution for the above two codes

Try to reset the dishwasher and if this doesn’t work, consider replacing the entire control panel.


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 2-1

Probable meaning: A key on the control panel is probably stuck.

Suggested fix: Check for the stuck key and try to fiddle with it (until it is back into its correct position).


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 2-2

Probable meaning: The control panel and main control board are not communicating.

Suggested solution: Replace the control panel and if there is no change, replace the control board.


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 3-1

Probable meaning: There is a problem with the thermistor wiring or the thermistor is defective. It may also signal a fault in the optical water indicator(OWI)


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 3-2

Probable meaning: The OWI has completely failed.

Solution for the above two codes

Try to repair the thermistor/OWI circuit wiring – your owner’s manual may have the wiring diagram- or replace the thermistor/OWI (or both parts).


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 5-1

Probable meaning: The door is not latching properly.

Suggested solution: Try to close the door tight – press the start button and immediately close the door.


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 5-2

Probable meaning: The door is unable to open perhaps due to a bad door switch.

Suggested solution: Replace the machine’s door switch.

More errors codes and their likely meaning

Error code Probable meaning (and repair ideas, in some cases)
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 6-2


There is a fault in the machine’s water inlet valve (an electrical issue is pretty common when it comes to water inlet valve).


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 6-3


Either the water pump has suds or air, causing it not to work or operate improperly.


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 7-1 Defective heating element (replacement needed). 
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 7-2 Heating element is not turning off. Reset the machine and replace the main electronic board, if the error won’t go.


Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 8-1 The drain pump is having a slow drain issue (reset the machine and check if it will drain properly after that)
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 8-2 There is an electrical problem with the drain pump (replace the pump)
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 9-1 Diverter’s position is not known. Check the diverter’s wiring and fix it- it is often the cause. Replace the diverter, if you’re not lucky
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 9-2 Diverter stuck in “on” position
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 9-3 Diverter disk probably missing (replace disk)
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 9-4 Lower spray arm potentially obstructed (remove the obstruction or replace the arm)
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 10-1 Dispenser has electrical issues. Check wiring/replace.
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 10-2 Vent wax motor has electrical issues. Check wiring/replace.
Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic code 10-3 Drying fan has electrical issues. Check wiring/replace.



How to reset Kitchenaid dishwasher

To reset the dishwasher’s control panel, simply disconnect it from its power source (for about one minute) or unplug it from the outlet for one minute.

Hard wired units can be reset by turning the breaker off (at the household electrical panel) and then turning it back on.  


Winding it up

Look up your error code above and try out the suggested repairs if your appliance won’t work.

If you have not found your error code in the list, you can easily look it up on Google (type “Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic codes”) or on kitchenaid website.

Good luck.


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1 thought on “Kitchenaid dishwasher diagnostic codes –Meaning and fixes”

  1. I own a Kitchenaid brand dishwasher, Model# KDFE304DSS0, serial # F41308483, Purchased in June, 2014. In operation, sometimes the dishwasher will not dry the dishes. When I put in in diagnostic mode I get a 8-1 code. That is supposed to indicate a drain pump issue. But, the drain pump tests fine. When I reset the control panel, by pressing any three buttons at the front three times in rapid succession, the machine starts drying again. Then in a few wash cycles it fails to dry. When it is drying properly, I get internal washing chamber temperatures from 71 at the start of the cycle to 140F ish at the end of the cycle. Any thoughts?


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